THE FASHION SPECTACLE

Fashion shows have become more than just models walking down a runway, they are a full stage production of lighting, music, props and art. Designers use fashion shows not only to showcase their latest designs, however, use the runway to create a mood around the garments and to give insight into the designers concepts, inspirations and creative processes. Additionally, these often overtly theatrical events gain media attention and publicity for the brand. 

An example of fashion as spectacle can be seen in John  Gallianos 1998 Spring-Summer Hourte Couture show for Dior. The fashion show was a reenactment of the eighteenth century princess and the pea scenario and was an overtly theatrical and lavish event. Gallianos transformation of space involved defacing its real characteristics in the interest of imposing his own fantasy vision on the space, weaving mythologies and creating something out of nothing (Evans 2003, p. 67). The aim behind such a fashion spectacle is for the consumer to loose themselves in a fantasy world, as Guy Bebord describes ‘...for a world driven by false desires’ (1992, p.195). The fashion spectacle is used to seduce the audience and to gain widespread media coverage and hype of the catwalk event, enhancing the brands identity. The brand also gains cultural capital by showing that they have a knowledge and appreciation for art and theater. This form of fashion show can be described as monumental, seductive and fanciful. 

John  Gallianos 1998 Spring-Summer Hourte Couture show for Dior

The fashion spectacle and hourte couture is often described as an art form. It is seen as artwork due to its uniqueness, garments often being one off pieces, the handcrafted quality of the garments, and the concept or message the designer is emoting through the garments. All these elements make hourte couture more than just clothing and is often form over function. Didier Grumbach, President of the Fédération Française de la Couture,  explains ‘The brands that we all know were founded by artists who expressed themselves on the body rather than on a canvas … In the end, fashion is an industry and the designer has to compromise, but during a certain period of the designer’s life, it is art, it must be art, if not, there is nothing and a brand cannot last.’ (Armed 2009) These factors distinguish ready to wear, mass produced clothing from hourte couture and high end fashion shows.  

The influence of art, hourte couture and the fashion spectacle on the fashion industry has translated into still imagery and magazine advertisements. The theatrics and mood of fashion shows is often carried through into magazine spreads and advertisements. Although it looses the performance qualities of a live show, the advertisements have just as much production behind them as the fashion shows. For example, it can be seen in the magazine spread following John  Gallianos 1998 Spring-Summer Hourte Couture show for Dior (refer to image below) that the image is structured to resemble an eighteenth century painting and is overloaded with subject matter, much like the fashion show. This trend of fashion show I believe will change over time alongside popular culture, art movements and music. At present, this type of fashion show is necessary in the attempt to stay original and keep viewers interested in an image saturated world.

A magazine spread from John  Gallianos 1998 Spring-Summer Hourte Couture show for Dior

REFERENCES

Amed, I 2009, Didier Grumbach – Fashion’s creative pragmatist, viewed 27^th October 2012 <http://www.businessoffashion.com/2009/01/didier-grumbach-fashions-creative-pragmatist.html >

Debord, G 1992, Society of the Spectacle, Zone Books, London.

Evans,C 2003, Fashion at the edge, Library of Congress in Publication Data, Italy viewed 27^th October 2012 <http://books.google.com.au>

IMAGES SOURCED FROM

Dior Couture, 2011 Tumblr viewed 26th October 2012 <http://suicideblonde.tumblr.com/post/26344999046/dior-couture-s-s-1998>

Fashion and Fame

The growing obsession with celebrity culture has had a great influence on the fashion industry. With people wanting to know a celebrities every move and what they were wearing while doing it, celebrities have become walking advertisements for designer brands. The immediacy and accessibility of media today has only popularized the interest and interaction with celebrity culture, whether it is to admire, imitate or criticize them.  

The immediacy and accessibility of the internet has increased the demand and supply of celebrity photographs, with their choice of apparel under constant scrutiny. As author of Fashion and Celebrity Culture Pamalor Gibson states “The interrelationship between fashion and celebrity is now a salient and pervasive feature of the media world” (Gibson, P 2011). Magazines and online fashion blogs such as The Fashion Spot have made celebrity culture easier to relate to by showcasing not only their red carpet event outfits, however, additionally drawing to our attention their everyday wear. This steams from the growing interest in celebrities off screen personalities and lifestyles more so than their onscreen performances and the influence of the paparazzi format photography. 

Street Style of Lindsy Lohan in Levi denim shorts, 2012

Brands have used our interest in celebrities as a marketing tool to advertise and sell their products. Designers can directly target a particular audience by using a specific celebrity in which the target audience aspires or relates themselves to. By wearing a brand and being photographed in public, the celebrity becomes a walking advertisement with instant publicity in trending magazines, blogs and websites. When asked by a reporter if much thought was put into her style, television personality and musician Kelly Osborne responded “It’s not that hard because I just get sent things by the designers. I got off the plane [before London Fashion Week] and Henry Holland said, “I’m sending you this dress and its red and its leather" (www.glamourmagazine.co.uk, 2012). This marketing tool gains exposure and (depending on which celebrity is wearing the outfit) a higher social status for the brand by linking the clothing to celebrity culture, which is often what we perceive to be an elite and glamorous lifestyle.  

Additionally, designers will strategically use celebrity images, names and quotes on the garment itself as a marketing tool. For instance in 2007 blogger and designer Henry Holland attracted attention for printing catchphrases such as I'll show you who's boss, Kate Moss on his garments (Gouttes,P 2007). The celebrity name alone is enough to construct a brand image and make the garments desirable even though the celebrity name, in this instance, is being used in a derogatory way.

‘I’ll Show You Who’s Boss Kate Moss’, dress designed by Henry Holland, 2007

 Furthermore, the influence of celebrity culture on the fashion industry has stretched to the point of the celebrity becoming the designer. Many celebrities, such as pop singer Katy Perry and child actors Mary-Kate and Ashley Olson, have used their fame to promote their own line of cosmetics, clothing and accessories. The designs are personalized by the celebrity and the brand is used as a marketing tool to promote their particular style and lifestyle, increasing their public interest. Similarly, already established brands often use celebrities to design a one off product or a line of clothing to enhance their image and public interest. For example, American confectionery company Sugar Factory have a line of ‘Couture Pops’ where a number of celebrities have designed signature lollipops available for public consumption. The Couture Pops are an accessory that not only represents the style of the celebrity, however, consumers can literally experience the celebrities preferred taste.  

Britney Spears and Jason Trawik pose with matching Couture Pops from Sugar Factory inside Chateau Nightclub, 2012

It is clear that celebrity culture has a huge influence on the fashion industry. Not only does fashion and designer brands impact upon the popularity and public interest of a celebrity however a celebrity can impact upon the brands they are wearing in both a positive and negative way.

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References: 

Celebrity Fashion Designers 2012, Parade Publications California, viewed 22^nd September 2012 <http://www.parade.com/celebrity/slideshows/style/celebrity-fashion-designers.html#?slideindex=0> 

Gibson, P 2011, Fashion and celebrity culture, Bloomsbury Publishing, viewed 22^nd September 2012 < http://www.bergpublishers.com > 

 Gouttes,P 2007, Head of the House, My Fashion Life, viewed 22^nd September 2012 < http://www.myfashionlife.com > 

 Johnson J 2012, Fashion Designers Paying Celebrities To Attend Fashion Shows, The Inquisitr, viewed 19^th September 2012 < www.inquisitr.com > 

 Kelly Osbourne: Fashion Exclusive! 2012, Condé Nast Digital Ltd, viewed 23^rd September 2012 < http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk > 

 Schimminger, M 2012 Celebrity Fashion, The Fashion Spot, viewed 20^th September 2012 < www.thefashionspot.com >

  

Images sourced from:

Britney Spears and Jason Trawick pose with matching couture pops from Sugar Factory inside Chateau Nightclub, 2012, Chateau Nightclub, viewed 22^nd September 2012 < http://blog.chateaunightclublv.com >

Gouttes,P 2007, ‘I’ll show you who’s boss Kate Moss’ dress designed by Henry Holland, My Fashion Life, viewed 22^nd September 2012 < http://www.myfashionlife.com >

Wright, M 2012, Lindsay Lohan in Levi Denim Shorts, Celebrity pictures in designer jeans, Huddler Fashion and Lifestyle, viewed 22nd September 2012 < www.denimblog.com/celebrity >