Surfing first became popular in western culture, particularly in America and Australia, during the 1940’s and 1950’s with some of the first dominant ‘surfer’ fashion trends being Hawaiian tee-shirts, shorts and thongs. At this time, especially for surfers in California, this dress code acted as a cultural uniform, and suggested that the person spent the majority of their time at the beach. Culture is described as a particular way of life which expresses meaning and values not only in art and learning, but also in institutions and ordinary behaviours (Williams, R 1996). This fashion trend was quickly adopted by mainstream society and its influences can be seen in the 1959 film ‘Gidget’ staring actress Sandra Dee, which depicted the stereotyped fashion trends and lifestyle of surfers living in America at the time.
The roots of western surf fashion stem from the need for practical clothing to serve both in and out of the ocean. Board shorts were designed to be lightweight in the water, t-shirts and thongs a practical and comfortable dress for summer seasons and wetsuits worn to keep the body warm in cold water. With designers limited to keeping the clothing practical, branding plays an important role in the consumption of ‘surfy’ clothing. As the clothing is restricted to particular materials and styles based on practicality, brands must distinguish themselves by promoting the lifestyle that comes with wearing their brand. This is often achieved by sponsoring elite or celebrity surfers to wear their clothing, to act as a walking advertisement. This is a marketing tool used by brands, as they personally select the ideal type of person to wear their clothing, often a person of public interest, which will in turn enhance the brands image (Adcock, D, Halborg, D, & Ross, C 2011). This association with celebrity and lifestyle makes a pair of Quicksilver board shorts more desirable to the consumer (whether they are a surfer or ‘wannabe’ surfer) than a pair, for example, from department store Kmart who do not overtly promote this subcultures way of life.
Comparable to many other subcultures, fashion has played a major role in the development of the surfing subculture by giving it a distinct style. This cultural uniform distinguishes surfers from other social groups of the time. In contemporary times the ‘surfer’ dress code is not as defined as simply wearing a Hawaiian tee-shirt. The most dominant trends that identify a surfer to mainstream society is to be wearing surf brand clothing such as Billabong, Quicksilver or Roxy. Ormrod suggests surfing is “...predicated on consumerism. It is the romantic aspect of consumerism that is crucial here, consumerism is based upon desire and the possibility of achieving the perfect life through buying and consuming objects and experiences” (Ormond, J 2005). As an example, one of the main fashion trends for surfers is to wear board shorts, both in and out of the surf. Board shorts promote the lifestyle of either constantly coming or going to the beach. Additionally, sun bleached blonde hair often signifies a ‘surfer’, as always being out in the sun and saltwater. Mainstream society has adopted these trends with people able to buy surf brand clothing in surf shops and dye their hair blonde in an attempt to obtain an authentic surfer look without actually practicing the sport.
As mainstream society continues to adopt the fashion trends of certain subcultures, the members of these groups continue to evolve in order to maintain an authentic look. In the case of surfers, these fashion trends must revolve around the central concern of practicality and comfort while maintaining to represent and promote an alternative lifestyle from the mainstream.
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Life is Better in Board Shorts, Billabong Advertisment 2011 |
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Surfer Girls, Billabong Advertisment, 2011 |
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References
Adcock, D, Halborg, D, & Ross, C 2011, Marketing Principles and Practice (4th Ed.) Pearson Education, United Kingdom.Booth, D 2001, Australian Beach Culture – The History of Sun, Sand and Surf, Frank Cass, London.
Guthrie, J 2011, Subculture:Surfing, ABC 2010, viewed 4th September 2012 <http://pool.abc.net.au/media/subculture-surfing-3>
Ormond, J 2005, Endless Summer (1964) Consuming waves and
surfing the frontier, Film and History: An Interdisiplianry journal of film and
television studies, London.
Quicksilver Corperate 2011, Quiksilver Inc. Annual Report 2006, viewed 7th September 2012 <http://www.quiksilverinc.com/AnnualReports/Quiksilver_Annual_Report_2006.pdf>
Williams, R 1996, The
Long Revolution, Chatto and Windus, London.
Images sourced from
Billabong Australia, 2011, Billabong Wallpapers, Billabong Corperate, viewed 5th September 2012 <http://www.billabong.com.au>
Billabong Australia, 2011, Billabong Wallpapers, Billabong Corperate, viewed 5th September 2012 <http://www.billabong.com.au>