Dressing The Dead

With the constant exposure to television, internet, cinema and video games, it seems scenes of violence, death and the macabre are forever becoming less shocking and more entertaining. This has not gone unnoticed in the fashion industry, with a number of fashion photographers shooting scenes that are reminiscent of stills from a horror movie, rather than a clothing advertisement. In an attempt to capture viewer’s attention in a world of over exposure, graphic imagery may be seen as the only way to stand out from the crowd. 

Japanese photographer Izima Kaoru’s challenges ideas of beauty and its association, and disassociation, with death. His photographs capture scenes that are both beautiful and tragic. Kaoru invited actresses and models to reveal to him their inner fantasies about a perfect death. Additionally, he asked them which designer clothes they would like to wear when they died (Izima Kaoru 2012). Despite this morose role playing, the designer clothing is romantically draped over the lifeless and neglected bodies of the models with a certain delicacy. Kaoru’s photographs suggest that even in death, the designer clothes can still make the wearer an object of desire. This marrige of death and couture questions traditional ideals of beauty and pushes the boundaries for commercial fashion photography.

The key to the success of this style of photography is the absence of truth. With the viewer only left with clues and suspicions as to what may have happened to the girl in the picture, they are invited to construct their own story behind the photograph. Perhaps she was murdered by a jealous lover, or maybe she was a victim in a violent crime spree? The possibility of the story behind the photograph is only limited by the viewer’s own imagination. This type of interaction with advertising is particularly successful in engaging the viewer.  When advertisements encourage the story be constructed by the viewer, they become a form of escapism from reality. The advertisements allow viewers to enter a different world (if they so wish), to linger and absorb the imagery (Mareck, M 2011). What is interesting to note is that the clothing itself is no longer the focal point. In fact, in many instances there is only the slightest hint of the brand in the picture. This subtlety of branding cleverly distracts the viewer that they are actually looking at an advertisement, thus retaining their attention for longer.

So what is the next step for fashion photography after death? Perhaps this is the most extreme the commercial fashion industry can take an advertisement while still retaining the power to influence shoppers into buying the product. It also must be questioned whether this style of advertisement is even effective in the commercial world or is it just the brand gaining cultural capital for being viewed in the context of art. It certainly draws a lot of attention; however I don’t believe mainstream department stores such as Target will be adopting this style of fashion photography into their catalogues any time in the near future. 

Izima Kaoru Fukasawa Elisa wears John Galliano, 2001, C-print, 180cm x 150cm

Izima Kaoru, Sakai Maki wears Jil Sander, 2008, C-print 180 x 150 cm

Izima Kaoru, Hashimoto Reika wears Milk #443, 2006, C-print, 180cm x 150cm

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References:

Dogramaci, B 2012, To die in beauty, The staging of death in fashion photography, viewed 20th August 2012 <http://www.frauenkunstwissenschaft.de/pdf/dogramaci.pdf>

Izima Kaoru 2012, Artnet Worldwide Corporation, New York, viewed 21st August 2012
<http://www.artnet.com/artwork/425946450/1094/izima-kaoru-sakai-maki-wears-jil-sander.html>

Izima Kaoru 2012, Studio La Città, viewed 22nd August 2012 <http://www.studiolacitta.it/English/Artists/IzimaKaoru.php>

Levitt, D 2003, Vice Fashion - The Death Issue, Vice Media Inc, viewed 22nd August 2012 <http://www.vice.com/read/fashion-v9n8> 

Mareck, M 2011, Engaging Content - Does It Improve Advertising Receptivity or Cause Resistance?, Research Marketing Ltd, London, viewed 22nd August 2012
<http://www.marketresearchworld.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=442&Itemid=74>

Images sourced from:

Focus on Izima Kaoru 2012, 160g Magazine, Digital Publications, viewed 26th August 2012 <http://www.160grams.com/news/culture/focus-on-izima-kaoru>
 

Izima Kaoru 2012, Artnet Worldwide Corporation, New York, viewed 21^st August 2012
<http://www.artnet.com/artwork/425946450/1094/izima-kaoru-sakai-maki-wears-jil-sander.html>